Aleppo pepper is not only an essential ingredient in Levantine cuisine, but also an economic pillar for many families in Salqin. However, between drought and conflicts, the production of this precious red fruit, highly sought after in the Middle East, is being severely challenged. Faced with the climate crisis, farmers are innovating to preserve a crop that shapes both their daily lives and their heritage.
Cultivated in the Syrian village of Salqin, nestled in the province of Idlib, this variety of pepper, better known as Aleppo pepper, is a flagship ingredient in the local cuisine, prized for its slightly fruity yet spicy taste. "A bit of umami" (delicious) some would add.
A cultural and culinary symbol
Used notably in the preparation of local products - the mouné - Aleppo pepper is more than just a condiment. It is a cultural and culinary pillar for the entire region. It can be found in makdous - small blanched eggplants, stuffed with a mixture of pepper, walnuts, and garlic preserved in olive oil - in shanklish - a traditional dry and aged cheese, usually made from cow or goat milk - but it can also be made into chili paste (رب الحر) or even muhammara - a sauce/dip originating from Aleppo, Syria, very popular in Levantine and Turkish cuisine. "There are many peppers in the market, from bird's eye chili to habaneros, but nothing compares to the flavor and texture of Aleppo pepper," says Rosie, a Lebanese, forty-year-old homemaker.
This year, the stalls of Lebanese, Turkish, and Iraqi markets, traditionally flooded with Syrian red peppers from as early as August, experienced an unusual delay. It wasn't until the end of September that a few crates appeared, revealing a vulnerability in the supply chain. "Many customers come asking for Aleppo peppers for their mouné," recounts Bassam, a greengrocer in Lebanon. I managed to get a few crates, but large quantities go to big distributors or mouné producers in large quantities in the Bekaa province."
A local economy challenged by drought
The trade of chili peppers represents a crucial source of income for the local population. Mainly exported to Lebanon, Turkey, and Iraq, it contributes to maintaining a local economy in a region where conflict has left few opportunities. Despite these advantages, the Syrian agricultural sector faces unprecedented environmental challenges. For nearly 70 years, Syria has been experiencing a drought that not only threatens agriculture but also food security.
In 2021, Syria recorded its worst year of drought in seven decades, with temperatures rising by 5 degrees compared to the annual average. Some regions, such as Raqqa, saw precipitation drop drastically, barely reaching 80 mm, compared to 208 mm in 2019. This directly impacted crops, with wheat harvests falling by nearly a million tons over the past decade. In this context, maintaining the cultivation of red chili peppers is almost a feat. "Before, we used to export (the region, editor's note) more than forty tons of peppers per year, today we can barely sell less than twenty in the local and international markets," explains Mahmoud, a farmer. "Water is becoming increasingly scarce, and acquiring it costs way too much."
Adapting to the Climate Crisis
Faced with this climate crisis, farmers in Salqin have had to adapt to survive. One of the main levers of this adaptation is low-water consumption planting. This technique allows for a more rational use of water. Instead of traditional irrigation, micro-irrigation allows for drip irrigation of crops, thus reducing losses from evaporation and infiltration. "We also use mulching, which helps retain soil moisture, and cow dung which is naturally rich in water. This has allowed us to maintain a portion of our chili pepper production, despite extremely challenging climatic conditions," Mahmoud continues.
Some non-governmental organizations (NGOs) such as the International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas (ICARDA), Care France, or even the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations have played an essential role in the survival of this local economy. They provide technical support to farmers, training them in new land management methods, and offer funding to improve local infrastructure, especially crop processing units.
Offsetting Climate and Geopolitical Hazards
According to the locals, this support has helped to sustain a portion of the chili production, despite the geopolitical instability in the region. Crowdfunding projects, such as collective purchases of machinery, have also been initiated. This allows farmers to access modern tools and diversify their sources of income. However, these efforts are not sufficient to eliminate the structural obstacles that hinder the development of this economic activity.
By reducing water dependency, farmers are focusing their efforts on other aspects of production, such as local processing of chili. This process, which includes drying, threshing, and grinding, adds value to the raw product while creating additional jobs. Diversifying agricultural activities becomes a way to counterbalance the adverse effects of the climate on crops.
A business under pressure
Despite technical advancements and external support, limited access to international markets remains a major obstacle for producers in Salqin. Due to political tensions and armed conflicts, exports of peppers to countries like Lebanon or Turkey are often disrupted. Commercial routes become dangerous or impassable, forcing producers to sell their stocks in nearly non-existent local markets.
This increased competition puts pressure on an already fragile economy. Farmers must deal with price volatility that can jeopardize their long-term survival. According to experts, the cost of transporting goods between Syria and Lebanon increased by 30% in 2023, worsening the financial difficulties of producers. "Although prized by foreigners (Lebanese, Iraqis, and Turks, Editor's note) our products often arrive half rotten due to the unusual transport conditions and the time conflicts make us lose," explains Abdallah, a farmer.
By combining innovative agricultural techniques and local initiatives, the community of Salqin has managed to maintain a vital economic activity while adapting to climatic realities. The red pepper, once a symbol of prosperity, is now a testimony to the determination to preserve an intangible heritage and a way of life.
