Just as the annual feast of Saint Anthony was held on June 13, the church dedicated to him in the heart of Istanbul reminds us how unique this place is. Amidst the city's bustle, the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua offers a rare example of shared spiritual hospitality. A place of prayer, visitation, curiosity, and sometimes devotion, it attracts a diverse crowd every day where Muslims, Christians, and simple onlookers coexist in a respectful and contemplative atmosphere.
In the heart of the old Beyoğlu district, also known as Péra, on the European side of the Bosphorus, separated from the historic peninsula of Constantinople by the Golden Horn, the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua is located in one of the busiest areas of the city of Istanbul. During the Ottoman era, the neighborhood housed many European embassies, particularly along the Grand Rue de Péra (renamed İstiklal Caddesi, meaning "Independence Street," after the establishment of the Turkish Republic). In the early 20th century, this area was the heart of modern city life. It was renowned for its cosmopolitan and refined atmosphere, with its consulates, prestigious schools, bourgeois buildings, banks, international hotels, shops, theaters, cinemas, cafes, clubs, and restaurants.
Until the 1930s, the most spoken language in this neighborhood was not Turkish, but French, which was also used for street names and shop signs.
However, throughout the 20th century, Beyoğlu experienced a relative decline. After the 1950s, a large part of the foreign communities left the neighborhood, even the city. Yet, since the early 1990s, a restoration movement has been initiated, and several old buildings have been renovated. İstiklal Caddesi has been transformed into a pedestrian street. Only a "nostalgic tram" now runs there, helping to recreate the historical atmosphere of the neighborhood. Additionally, a diverse religious heritage remains here, consisting of an impressive number of chapels, churches, and temples representing all the Christian denominations that have lived in Istanbul.
A welcoming place open every day
Managed by the Conventual Franciscans, Saint Anthony is undoubtedly the most well-known and frequented of these buildings. It has existed since the 18th century and was rebuilt in its current neo-Gothic style in the early 20th century. Unlike other Christian places in this neighborhood, which are closed or only open sporadically, the church is accessible every day from 9 AM to 8 PM.
As one walks along İstiklal Caddesi, one is tempted to pass through the large gate leading to a spacious courtyard, then to the church itself. The entrance from the street is easy and presents no significant obstacles. Besides a few international tourists (mostly Europeans, Americans, or Japanese) who visit this place because it is a "tourist site," many Turkish Muslims come to discover it. For some of them, this visit is merely an extension of their stroll on İstiklal Caddesi.
However, the majority of Muslims make a much more substantial visit. They stop in front of the lit candles, read the prayer to Saint Anthony displayed on the wall, look at the statues, and contemplate the stained glass windows. Some immortalize the entire church or a few details using a mobile phone. Visitors often arrive in small groups or families. Couples can also be seen walking hand in hand through the naves.
A plural spirituality in a strong sensory setting
Saint Anthony welcomes a multi-confessional crowd and its diverse practices. Catholics seem to be in the minority compared to the thousands of Sunni Muslims who cross the threshold of the church every day, along with Alevis and Greek Orthodox. This space is open to everyone. Here, people can walk around and discover religious diversity up close. The imposing Gothic architecture of the interior space, with its high vaults, is bathed in the light of the stained glass windows. The smell of incense and wax, the respectful silence that reigns in the large naves and central space, the statues, paintings, ex-votos, and the dozens of burning candles all contribute to a sensory experience that inspires silent contemplation.
Muslim rituals in a Catholic sanctuary
Some "regulars" already know the interior of the church well. For example, schoolchildren or office workers carrying briefcases take a few minutes detour, stepping away from the flow of İstiklal Street. These are "regular" visitors whose circuit is focused on certain ritual practices related to votive requests. They can be seen heading towards the candles, purchasing and lighting them without hesitation. After a moment of contemplation in front of the statue of Saint Anthony or the altars, they are ready to return to the city's hustle and bustle.
Other visits are longer and involve elaborate rituals. Muslim women, often from humble social backgrounds, may stay for several hours and perform a wide range of ritual gestures, including walking around the church, a form of ablution with the water from the holy water fonts, and opening and closing the small doors that lead to the side altars. Sometimes they ask the Franciscan brothers who manage the church to protect them from the attacks of the evil eye or cin (djinns).
Several Muslims sit on the benches and even remain there during the celebration of the mass. At the time of communion, it happens that some of them join the Catholics to receive the host, which the celebrants try to avoid as much as possible. Sometimes, women can be seen discreetly reading the Quran during the service. All these behaviors do not express a desire for conversion. They are explorations of a "different" religious space and attempts to benefit from its symbolic resources, through a believing investment that multiplies references and interlocutors in search of a supernatural benefit.
A figure beyond confessions
The interreligious miracle that occurs in the heart of Istanbul is not unique. Thanks to the work of the Franciscans, this Saint Anthony of Padua seems capable of inspiring devotion beyond confessional boundaries. Among the many examples, we can mention the church dedicated to him in Sarajevo, built in turn in the early 20th century in a neo-Gothic architectural style, and endowed with the same plural attraction for Muslim and Orthodox believers. Or the sanctuary of Laç in northern Albania. Destroyed during communism, the building was rebuilt after the end of the regime to become an important pilgrimage site, where colorful crowds, with a significant presence of Sunni and Bektashi Muslims, gather.
Cover photo: Some Muslims sit on the benches and even remain there during the celebration of the mass © Dionigi Albera