In Marseille and since 2020, Monia Sbouaï has set up an eco-friendly and virtuous fashion process in every way: Atelier Regain. From her brand Super Marché, a witness to her Parisian period, she has kept the fundamentals: reusing existing textiles and involving people in integration in the manufacturing process.
Cours Lieutaud, in the heart of Marseille. Pushing the heavy front door, a small corridor and there, a beehive: on about 150 square meters spread over two levels, the hands of Atelier Regain are busy, under the kind supervision of Monia Sbouaï.
An upcycling studio attached to a thrift store
Since she dropped anchor in the city of Marseille, Monia Sbouaï has been knitting her projects with the Emmaüs network and its Frip Insertion shops. The same logic and the same resources, enhanced by an upcycling studio capable of creating her own collections. "Because Atelier Regain is not just a brand, it's also a laboratory," insists the creator.
It is on the top floor, bathed in light, that the sewing workshop has set up. Shelves are filled with pieces of fabric carefully sorted by materials and colors. "We give a new life to the most damaged second-hand textiles - stained, torn, with a faulty zipper. We specify to the sorting workshop what we need, as we rely heavily on certain materials such as denim or wool blankets," explains Monia Sbouaï.
A detailed recipe for each model
Since the launch of the project, about fifteen women have already been introduced to sewing within this training workshop, either in integration or in alternation. They have the status of single parents and are referred by authorized prescribers, such as Pôle Emploi or the Mission Locale. They can also respond to ads posted on the Inclusion Platform. Whether they have prior knowledge or not is not important. Because Monia Sbouaï has designed a learning method in several steps that is suitable for both beginners and more experienced individuals. Each model is accompanied by a "recipe" detailing its implementation step by step. And each person fits into the program at their own level. Not to mention the solidarity and transmission from the experienced to the new ones.
"Sewing is not necessarily their vocation or future profession. It is a means to get back on track. However, the majority of them would like to continue in this field. Unfortunately, Marseille has many integration workshops but few specialized companies, making it difficult to secure a permanent contract."
Totem piece, the quilted tote bag
The Atelier Regain collection now includes around fifty models, ready-to-wear pieces, as well as household linens and accessories. A standout piece is an original quilted tote bag. It is followed by sleeveless jackets tailored from blankets. "Our DNA is a colorful, joyful universe, with clean cuts, a mix of pieces and materials," explains the stylist. Only unique pieces are sold in Marseille stores, during pop-up events, at the Emmäus Paris store, or online.
Here is the shop window, behind which are two other activities, more confidential.
Orders for uniforms, corporate gifts, series...
First come the orders. For example, the association Météo et Climat which organizes a traveling exhibition about climate change wanted a special outfit for its mediators and researchers. Atelier Regain therefore designed their uniform: sleeveless vests made from men's shirts, with colored bias tape, practical pockets, and their logo. "We must have good SEO, because they found us on the Internet," smiles Monia Sbouaï.
The team also made the 400 quilted zippered kits offered by Chanel to its guests during its Marseille fashion show.
Discover the world of sorting and recycling
Finally, there are awareness workshops - on excesses in the textile and fast fashion industry, on sorting and its resources. One discovers this world through a visit to a thrift store, with information on the origin of the clothes, the tonnage, and what is kept. Before heading to the sewing workshop to make a tote bag from a shirt. "A real interest in these issues," points out Monia.
However, these three activities do not yet ensure self-sufficiency for Atelier Regain. Subsidies are still necessary, which requires applying for calls for projects. But Monia Sbouaï's enthusiasm remains intact: "This professional adventure is incredible, even though I did not imagine that the project would be so vast." An advantage: being part of the Emmaüs ecosystem, which enjoys good recognition. A disadvantage: not enough visibility yet. She then suggests, "In Paris, my brand Super Marché had taken off after a post by Sophie Fontanel..."
To ensure the sustainability of their business, one can donate unused fabric rolls, end-of-collection, or unsold fabrics to give them a second life. Offer a workshop on upcycling awareness or place an order!
